History

Salmast, (spelled Salmas in Persian) is located in present day Iran.  It was  originally part of Ancient Armenia but fell under Persian empire within  the last two centuries.

There are many controversies over the origin behind the name of Salmas.  Throughout history, some people have called it either Zarvand or  Zaravand.

Documents and maps from the 7th century Armenian  geographer and mathematician Anania Shirakatsi, indicate that there is  no record of any city or province by the name of Zarvand on any maps of  Ancient Armenia; there is however a mention of a province and a city by  the name of Zaravand which on the ancient map extends 500 kms east of  modern day Zeyravanda region of Iran. [Souren Tikran Yeremyan, Armenia  in Wold Georgroaphy, HSSR GA – Published in Yerevan, 1963, page 50]

More  recent historical research and documents, such as Soviet Armenia  Encyclopedia confirm that both Zaravand province and the city of  Zaravand indeed “occupied north eastern part of present day Zeyravanda  stretching from Lake Rezayieh/Urmia to the Red Lake on the eastern side,  and it formed Parskahayks 8th province in the ancient times. The  before-mentioned encyclopedia goes further by stating that it was Kind  Sargon of Assyria (722-705 B.C.) who named the region Zaravand.  [Editorial – Volume 3, Yerevan, 1977, Page 662]

Thus, these  historical documents prove that Salmas was never part of Zaravand  region, nor part of the ancient city of Zaravand. Quite the contrary,  Zaravand was a separate province in north eastern part of Ancient  Armenia covering the land around present day lake Urumia to northern  part to present day Khoy, in Iran.

According to the Shirakatsi’s  documents (page 52) as well as the Soviet Armenia Encyclopedia, (page  667-668) the Historical name of Salmas Province is Zarehavan.

The  documents indicate that Zarehavan was [Parskayak]’s 7th province that  covered about 1100 km of Southwest of Lake Urumia/Rezayieh, and was  appointed at one point to be the consulship for the city of [nor  shirakan].

Both Shirakatsi’s records, and Soviet Armenian  Encylopedia (v.2, pages 667-668) state that the ancient Zarehaman region  covers the same area that is present day Salmas.  The Encyclopedia also  explains the region was under the Armenian authority even during the  times of [Ardeshirs] and [Arshakumians] … Armenians continued to live in  the area up until the outbreak of Russo-Persian war in 1826. During the  two year battle between the Persians and Russian, Armenian fled the  region and settled in Eastern Armenia.

The province of Salmas had  both a city and a village by the name of Zarehavan. The City is now  called Kohenshahr, which in Persian means “Old City.” The village of  Zarehavan is now called Zarafkhaneh (Sharafkhaneh ?-O.H.).

The  province bore the name of Salmas until the 1979 Islamic Revolution in  Iran. The ancient name of the capital city was Dilman, but under the  rule of the Pahlavi Dynasty, it was changed to Shahpour, but again was  changed back to Salmas after the revolution.  

Salmas without a  doubt is a region with rich history in Architecture, music, and  literature. Many ancient and historic ruins of schools, theaters and  churches can be found in Salmas. Cemeteries and tombstones, and a few  churches and Cathedrals that date back to 8th century are still standing  strong within the region. One very famous cathedral/church is called  Vank of Tade and has been a center for Eastern Christian Pilgrims for  many centuries. Another pilgrim center is the ruins of Raffi’s house –  the renowned Armenian writer (1835 - 1888) who was born in the Prishat  village of Salmas.  Other writers such as Yeghishe Charentz have merged  from Salams and rose to fame within Armenians as well as international  communities around the world.

Salmas is also famous for being  part of Lake Urumia/Rezayieh.  Although the lake has almost drought out  in recent years, small springs still float into it.

The bodies of  many Fedayis or members of Armenian Militia are laid to rest outside of  Christian cemetery in the Mahlam village of Salmas Province. These  soldiers fought against the tribal Kurdish/Turkish/Azeri forces that  were out to massacre Armenians and pillage their villages.  According to  some Salmas native Armenians, such as late Hayrik Sarvarian,  and the  late Armenian professor Hakop Boghosian, Voskan,  the Fedayis courageously fought against the enemy. Even though their  number was very small compared to the enemy forces, they gradually  advanced their forces from Mahlam to the neighboring villages. Once they  reached the fields of Zevanjouk, another village near by, they were  besieged by the enemy. To avoid captivity and torture, many of these  Fedayis shot themselves in the head. During the battle, the enemy forces  beheaded the corpse of the Armenian soldiers and left them in the  fields. Their remains were eventually brought back to Mahlam but since  their death was considered to be a suicide – an aspect against Christian  beliefs, the soldiers never received proper Christian burial, and were  buried outside of designated Christian cemeteries as an act of  condemnation.  Regardless, they were, and continue to be recognized for  their heroic deeds

In conclusion, there have been little studies  on Salmas and its rich history.  In recent years, architects Varoujan  Arakalian, and Armen Haghnazarian (19.. -20..?) have done some studies  on the architectures of Churches and Cathedrals of Salmas, but no other  specific work has been done on Salmas.  Nevertheless, one can only hope  that Armenian and any other architects can start conducting researches  and studies on the Salmas from every aspect so that its history will not be forgotten.

Translated from Armenian by Roubina Dermardirosian